Chords: Yeh hai Bombay Meri Jaan – CID

This entry is part 19 of 41 in the series Guitar

A lovely song from CID

F          Bb       C    Bb
Aye dil hai mushkil jeena yahan
Bb           C            Bb              F
Zara hat ke zara bach ke, yeh hai Bbombay meri jaan
F      Bb         C       Bb
Ha haa, ha ho ho, ho hi haa ha haa
Bb         C         Bb          F
Hm hm hm hm, hm hm hm , hm hm hm hm hm
Aye dil hai..

Bb                                              C
(Kahin building kahin traame, kahin motor kahin mill
                                         F
Milta hai yahan sab kuchh ik milta nahin dil) -2
Bb         C          Bb      F
Insaan ka nahin kahin naam-o-nishaan
Bb           C            Bb              F
Zara hat ke zara bach ke, yeh hai Bbombay meri jaan
Aye dil hai..

Bb                                          C
(Kahin satta, kahin patta kahin chori kahin res
                                             F
Kahin daaka, kahin phaaka kahin thokar kahin thes) -2
Bb          C       Bb    F
Bbekaaro ke hain kai kaam yahan
Bb           C            Bb              F
Zara hat ke zara bach ke, yeh hai Bbombay meri jaan
Aye dil hai..

Bb                                 C
(Bbeghar ko aawara yahan kehte has has
                                     F
Khud kaate gale sabke kahe isko business) -2
Bb          C    Bb        F
Ik cheez ke hain kai naam yahan
Bb           C            Bb              F
Zara hat ke zara bach ke, yeh hai Bbombay meri jaan
Aye dil hai..

F                                          Bb
(Bbura duniya woh hai kehta aisa bhola tu na ban
Bb            C             Bb                F
Jo hai karta woh hai bharta hai yahan ka yeh chalan) -2
Bb       C    Bb         F
Tadbeer nahin chalne ki yahan
Bb               C              Bb                   F
Yeh hai Bbombay, yeh hai Bbombay, yeh hai Bbombay meri jaan

Aye dil hai mushkil jeena yahan
Zara hat ke zara bach ke, yeh hai Bbombay meri jaan

F      Bb         C    Bb
Aye dil hai aasaa jeena yahan
Bb            C           Bb                   F
Suno mister, suno bandhu, yeh hai Bbombay meri jaan
Aye dil hai mushkil jeena yahan
Zara hat ke zara bach ke, yeh hai Bbombay meri jaan

 

Lonavala Bike Ride

A bike ride makes you feel something that is not imaginable. It makes u know, feel, the love between the road and the tyres, the affection between the suspension and the forks, the life-like hum of a cruising engine, the kiss between the piston ring and cylinder lining, and so much more. And its this feeling that makes u ride, makes u vrrooom.

I’m yet another bike lover, and its impossible to separate this addiction from any biker. I’m not the only one, there are many others as well. Vijay (Vj), Ankush, Sudeep, Hemant to name a few who were dying to get a Road trip organized. It did finally, on 3rd Feb 2007, and the destination was Lonavala. Lonavala being the closest to Mumbai and linked with exceptionally good roads.

bikers

Ankush had come from Pune, and was to pick his friend, Poonam, from Malad @ 5.45am. Vj had to meet him @ Uncles’ Kitchen close to 6.00 and get Hemant along the way to finally meet me @ Vakola Signal on the highway. But nothing goes as planned. I called Vj in the morning around 5.30 to know that Hemant had dropped from the plan. We were left with only 3 bikes, Vj, Ankush and myself. Luckily we had only 6 total riders, with Sudeep and Amol Rajoba joining Poonam as the pillion riders. Fine.

Vj called me around 6.10 that he and Ankush were now on the highway and would be there at Vakola, Santacruz(E) in another 10 mins. I lept off my couch, where I’d been watching FA Cup Football since 5.30. Got into my jacket, shoes, helmet. Put the bag on my shoulders… and there I was… heading for my first bike trip. At the basement, I got my engine firing, felt its vibration on the fuel tank, and put my Honda Unicorn into gear heading towards Vakola.

I’d been waiting for not more than 3min. when I got a call from Vj, he was searching for me. I looked behind, as expected he was on the other side of the crossing, I waved back at Anksuh and Vj, Sudeep spotted me. Soon we were cruising well above 60kmph along the Western Express highway. Amol Rajoba was waiting at the KalaNagar stop since 6.00, when we met him, it was close to 6.45. Full on capacity, our bikes were ready to move ahead without a stop. We rode only till Sion where Ankush had to take a leak, I joined him. Its always good to join friends on good deeds 🙂 We introduced ourselves there near “Sulabh Sauchalaya”, what a place to greet each other in the Morning.

Good deeds done, We were on Eastern Express highway then pulling off from the highway towards Chembur that led us towards Vashi. As soon as Chembur had gone past us, the road became clear and our bikes started pulling us faster (thanks to the accelarator). We were moving around 70+ kmph on the Mankhurd-Vashi bridge. With trucks, cars and other vehicles, we all enjoyed the feeling of power under our seats. Ankush’s baby, Bajaj Pulsar delivered a displacement of 180 cc, while that of Vj’s TVS Apache and mine displaced 150. Enough to make u feel the power

At Vashi, Ankush moved away from the main road, towards Palm beach road. This was it, my first attempt to go 100+. And the road was helpful. We all instinctively raced ahead with all the power that we could muster, raging ahead. Within seconds, I looked at my speedometer’s arm, it was moving towards 100, and soon it was just ahead. I was thrilled, excited, rather I don’t have any words to describe it. With the gush of wind so strong that can blow u away. I had gripped the handle hard enough, and the accelerator even harder 😉 . Oh !!! Heaven… I tried to gauge how much more I could accelerate. There was little, but still there was something. The turns were very light, making sure that the speed need not be dropped. But as always good things have to come to an end. The Palm beach road had to meet the Panvel city.

As we crossed Panvel city, and back onto the highway, I could see the sun just peeping over the hills, the Orange bulb, just brightening things around. We all decided we had to make a small stop for some snaps. I’d got my new Canon PowerShot S3 IS, just the last day. Ankush too captured the moments in his Sony H2.

Sunrise IMG_0045.JPG IMG_0043.JPG IMG_0036.JPG

Sudeep was interested in riding my bike, So I asked Rajoba to move on Vj’s bike and I became the pillion rider, with my camera hanging on around my neck. We moved ahead, straight into the sun, when I managed to capture this photo. We were riding over 70+, When I somehow managed to get this snap.

Panvel and Sihouette

As we moved ahead, I kept the camera with me, instead of the bag and grabbed some more moving images.

IMG_0048.JPG

We then cruised smoothly on the beautiful Mumbai Pune NH 4, with Sudeep enjoying the power. We took a small stop just ahead of Panvel where Ankush got his fuel tank quench its thirst. Later… it was so smooth, bliss. Smooth roads, calm, yet humming engine, and the road. In an hour or so we were close to Khopoli, where we had a stop at “Genuine Vada Pav”, I don’t know what was genuine about it, but the vada was good. With more vadapavs, the staple food of a Mumbaikar, and sweet tea. Our guts were happy as well.

I got the control of my bike there, cause I always wanted to ride the ghats. Soon enough, we had a tunnel, a small one but still wonderful to drive through, with our headlights blazing … and speeds over 70kmph. Further ahead we joined the Mumbai Pune Expressway for the Ghat section. Now this road was even wider, better, smoother. That just raised our adrenaline to go even faster. All this time I wondered why are we moving so fast, is it safe. I bet those who rode along, knew it was safe enough (That was for all non-bikers 😉 ). I and Ankush were ahead when we couldn’t’t see Vj anywhere around. so we decided to stop and take pics at the Khopoli ghat, We parked our bikes at the side. After 10min or so, Vj came. With bad news. He and Amol had slipped near the ghats, luckily nobody was injured, apart from slight bruises. Vj’s fork was bit misaligned, but rest was good.

bikers khopoli - expressway - ghat IMG_0055.JPG
khopoli - expressway - ghat IMG_0052.JPG khopoli - expressway - ghat
IMG_0050.JPG    

Lonavala wasn’t very far away from there, another 15-20 min. of ride took us there, amidst all the Chikki, Fudge shops. Poonam had to go to Pune, so we let her off at Lonavala station. I too had my fuel tank full, while we decided on our next destination. Pauna dam, Ambe valley or the Tata Power dam. We decided to go to Pauna dam, and later on the way towards the Tata Power dam.

We took a shortcut for Pauna dam, which was a typical village road, have paved, with rocks, pebbles, etc. but we managed to move ahead. We saw ourselves climb a mountain, Ankush pointed out Lohagad’s “Vinchu kataa”. We were on the back side of Lohgad. The route was very serene, calm. Yet again I managed to get the Cam, and we had some more shots.

IMG_0063.JPG IMG_0062.JPG IMG_0061.JPG

As we moved closer to the Pauna dam, we could see the huge water body surrounded by mountains, on the way I got a snap of a beautiful Temple, I think that it was.

IMG_0065.JPG

As we reached Pauna dam, we had some more shoots. And the dam was closed. we couldn’t get in. and to add to the misery, Photography was not allowed. But we’d already got some snaps before reaching the dam. We halted there, had water and lots of Chocolate that Vj had got.

pauna dam pauna dam IMG_0078.JPG

We decided to move ahead on the highway back again towards lonavala. Ankush knew a Dhaba where we could have lunch. So back again on the village road, winding, turning, sometimes bumpy. We saw many villas and probably one of the owners rushing Audi that almost came into us. We reached the highway where the road stretch was the best that we’d experienced so far. A nice tar road, which seemed to be laid recently. And the road itself was along the hills, winding. Broad road. We cruised to our hearts extent on that one, till we came to the Dhaba, Sunny’s Dhaba. Was more of a wide hotel, than a actual Dhaba.

We parked our bikes in its shed, and refreshed ourselves, and ordered for food. We were having our food when we all looked behind to see what was causing a strong roar of an Engine, we thought it was some truck. To our amazement came in 3 bikes, Kawasaki Ninja (I guess), Honda CBR and Suzuki Hayabusa. The bikes were amazing, and so was its roar. 3 middle-aged guys jumped from it. We still kept staring.

With some rest and more gazing at the bikes, we finally decided to move on. Our next stop was going to be Tata power dam. It wasn’t far ahead, we took a right on the road which led us to its gate. At the gate we were disappointed to know that no cameras were allowed. So somebody had to stay back, Since I and Anksuh both had been to the dam before, we decided to stay back, while Vj, Sudeep and Amol went ahead. I and Ankush laid on a बाकडा (bench) listening to songs on Amol’s mobile. They came back in another 15 mins, and we hoped on our bikes back on the road. In the main Lonavala city, Ankush said that we could still go to Ambe valley, which was not accessible to visitors, but the road towards it is good. No one refused. Ambe Valley.

Yet again, the road didn’t disappoint, a very steep winding road along the valley, that kept climbing, it was around 12km from Lonavala, all of it in the ghats, and yet neat road. Ankush wanted to ride my bike, so he was the rider on Unicorn and Sudeep on his Pulsar, racing ahead. The ride was good, apart from a small incident when I and Ankush were on a steep turn, when we suddenly stopped cause of a truck, and Ankush lost his balance, and I’d to jump back from the seat, and support Ankush to stabilize the bike. There on, we came to Lions’ point, where Sudeep was waiting, and more snaps.

IMG_0106.JPG IMG_0109.JPG IMG_0110.JPG Apache and Ankush Unicorn and me
IMG_0116.JPG Unicorn and Sudeep Apache and Vj IMG_0118.JPG IMG_0120.JPG

We went ahead to Ambe valley, where we had water at its gate, and then decided to return back to Mumbai, it was close to 4.10. On the way back, yet again down the hill we enjoyed the ride, this time I was alone on my Unicorn. We stopped at a chikki shop where we purchased some sweets, etc. We decided that the next stop would be nowhere before Panvel, but… everybody needs to take a leak, within a minute, we parked our bikes on side…. hmm… everything calm…

Back on the road, @ 80+ kmph, we enjoyed every moment and movement. In another hour and half’s time we were in Panvel where Ankush had a little petrol into his bike. Even after all this long, we coudln’t satisfy our hunger for speed, yet again we moved towards Palm Beach road, for which we even got lost. But the road waited for us, so did the dial to meet the pointer @ 100 kmph. … vroom….

At Vashi, we halted for a second, where we bid Ankush good bye, he moved straight ahead towards Thane, while we took a left for Mumbai. The road till Mankhurd was great, But then the Mumbai traffic caught us, it never left us till we reached home. At Bandra, I parted with Vj and Sudeep who’d to go ahead till Borivali, I dropped Amol at Bandra reclaimation, and I reached home close to 7.30.

A good, smooth, fast ride for the day had come to an end.

Dhak Bahiri Trek – धाक भहिरी

Standing at the top of hill, looking down the crevice between the two mountains, there was nothing I could see but the vast valley ahead hugged by other mountains, one of them the Rajmachi. Down there I could see no terrain. The valley dropping more than 2000 feet or so. And that is where we’d to climb down ! Sounds like a nightmare, but unfortunately was not. That precisely coincided with the talks, blogs, info that I and Vj had been reading all long the week.

The excitement kept mounting as the Thursday night turned into the Friday morn. I’d to ensure that everything is ready for the trek, for which we’d start in the night towards Karjat. As the day progressed in the office, there were few talks with Vj and other colleagues about the talk, but much of the passed with a normally hectic work schedule (that was a bit exaggerated!). And it was almost 7.00pm, Vj called Ankush to confirm where we shall be joining our journey. There was one more friend of Vj, Vikrant कोर्डे (who is never dry on jokes). They both were supposed to meet us at Thane stn.

Traveling Directions

I was standing at Dadar FOB, waiting for Vj and watching the Mumbai’s ant army marching along. Even after 11pm the Mumbaikars tirelessly changing trains, commuting… I wondered is that one of the reasons for which Mumbai is quoted as the city that never sleeps.

Vj came at around 11.30pm, he had called Ankush and asked him to board an Ambernath fast local which was to leave Dadar @11.37pm. Our central railway time-table, Chetan Bhandary was helpful for this information. He is the guy who basically manages our time schedule while commuting the Central Railways, but still manages to never come along with us. We waited for the train at the platform, with the other non-sleeping Mumbaites. The train came with its payload, exceeding as always, but still it was a lot better, there was enough room for us to stand comfortably near the door. In Mumbai, you are considered to be enjoying a 5-star room luxury, if you are close to the door on local trains, I bet we were atleast in 2-star luxury room. Vj gave me a printout of one of the blogs on Dhak Bahiri, I kept my eyes on it and my ears on Vj’s chatter.

The train travel was easy enough, thanks it was quite late for most of the peak traffic towards the Central side. Yet we just comfortable place to stand. Vj called up Ankush and asked him board the 8th bogie of Ambernath Fast local instead of waiting for us at Thane stn. The message was sent to Vikrant as well. The plan was to get down at Ambernath and then wait for the last Karjat local. We closed near Bhandup, when Vikrant called asking the whereabouts of Ankush at Thane stn, he was with a friend on a bike to Thane stn. Vj due fully gave all the information. With Vj around you are never short of information, whether useful or not, who knows, but information. Thane came quick and fast, Vj had another call to Ankush confirming on Vikrant’s position. But Vikrant had managed to miss everyone. He even had his phone switched off, for whatever reasons.

At Thane station, Vj got down tried to search Ankush and Vikrant, but as trained jumped to life, Vj hopped back in, with none of them. He even tried to “pcheeeww….” them to find them. If you are not a mumbaite, u wouldn’t know this unique sound that is used to initiate a communication between far distance communicators, its a weird sound made by blowing in air using a very small aperture at the mouth. Vj came back to me and said, “Ankush must have got in, but I’m not sure of Vikrant”. A few minutes later, Vj confirmed Ankush was in the 3’rd compartment. For the rest of the journey to Ambernath, Vj kept calling Vikrant, he even called his friend who had dropped Vikrant at the Stn. But all information that he could get is, Vikrant was at Thane station, ’cause on of the incoming nos. was public booth on Thane’s railway stn. But thats all we had about Vikrant. hmm… so it could be just 3 of us for Dhak bahiri.

At Kalyan stn, while I was reading, Ankush asked, “Just 3 of us ?”. I was stunned to see him, I’d expected to meet him at Ambernath. But he’d managed to come back in our compartment. He started nagging Vj on his “8th bogie” information. Local train compartments were not called “bogies” and you generally give the compartment no. which is the closest to either end, Vj’s info didn’t go with these rules. Bogies are referred normally to the Through trains only, and guess what, Vj had noted the Bogie no. board on Dadar stn which is meant only for through trains. This was enough for us to chat till we reached Ambernath at around 00.30am, Saturday, 20 Jan 2007.

Ambernath stn, was lonely after most of the commuters had left, we were asked by a policewalla for our desitnation. We stayed on the same platform where we had got off. I had a leak, while Vj still kept trying to contact Vikrant, but… the phone was off. The train to Karjat was scheduled @1.08. Unusual time for unusual people and trips. Suddenly close to 1.00 Vj had a ring, it was Vikrant!!! He was calling from one of the commuter’s cell from Ambernath. He had made it. phew !! atleast 4 of us. Vj ran ahead to get him.

Vikrant is a different human, he has an uncanny funny bone. He always is full with some comments, jokes or something that makes others stomach pain. Vikrant had boarded the Ambernath train luckily. He said that he’d seen a Mandgaon express near 11.30 and since Vj had said that it was the 8th bogie, he thought we’d be travelling till Ambernath by that train. But luckily enough his engg. logical thinking made him stick to the Ambernath local. We were again on Vj for his 8th bogie information. We sat at the Ambernath platform waiting for the Karjat local. Vj warned us that Chetan had informed him about groups robbing lonely commuters after Badlapur, since most of the stations were distanced more than 5 mins. apart, it was easy for the thugs. We had a laugh on that, Ankush had got his new DigiCam ~Rs.25K, we were like

कॅमेरा देना होगा तो दे देंगे, लेकिन उंको मारे बगेर नही। बहुत दिनसे मारा मारी नही की

The Karjat train came a little late, we boarded it still to find around 10-20 people in it. It was close to 1.20am, and even then…, life is bad for these poor fellows. We sat, and started our discussion on Gulabjamuns, Pista-rolls, Sevaiyaa and Kheer. Tempting enough for all those who read, except for us! We even met the generous commuter who had offered Vikrant his mobile to call Vj @1am on Ambernath stn. Without him, Vikrant wouldn’t have been with us for the trek. The journey to Karjat was safe enough, except at a place, where the compartment was full with some dust particles, I thought it was Cement powder, it made us choke… I asked Vikrant to open the doors, to clean up the air around.

Karjat stn, at night was busy enough. Being an important stn, where trains are added some muscle by shunting more engines to help the train navigate the Khopoli ghat section, there was plenty of activity around. It was close to 2.30am and all of us were damn sleepy, we had some tea, biscuits at a stall and asked him directons for Sandshi village, the base for Dhak bahiri. The village could be reached by ST bus which left not before 7.00am or Tuktuks which would charge around Rs.200. We had our stomachs working and went back to the bench, where Vikrant couldn’t resist the flat granite, he laid back on it with his hands tucked into the sweater and wherever he could get warmth 😉 We too decided to lay back till it was atleast 4.00.

Around 3.30, Ankush woke up and came where I and Vj were trying to sleep, but couldn’t. The granite was a cold tombstone for us. I had not even got any warm clothing, and was in my shorts and T-shirt. We went back to Vikrant and tried to wake him, he had his head covered with the monkey-cap. We roamed around till 4.00 when we finally moved outside the station towards the eastern side to see if there were any tuktuks, but none were to be seen, we moved ahead towards what we thought of a ST stop, when we spotted a tuktuk moving towards us, we asked about Sandshi and he said it would take 250, the least he could go was 200. Rs200 for 20kms was out of question we moved towards the ST depot, which was more of a ST parking garage than a depot, Vikrant, Ankush even sneaked into the cabins, where we could see a dim light, but returned sad to see all of them sleeping. I and Ankush joked

उठाअो उंको, ये कोई वक्त हे सोने का

With nothing much to do, we returned back to the station, where Ankush wanted to achive something close to Nirvana. I need not tell what ! He came back with his hands up, celebrating a Goal or something, He said, “Now I’m hungry… lets have food”

We then moved towards the western side of Karjat in a small hotel to have शीरा and चाय. With that even Vj wanted to have some freedom, so… back to Kalyan stn.

After that we went back to the eastern side in search of a tuktuk, we were lucky enough to spot a man with his vehicle. We tried to take him down from the std. rate of Rs.200 down to Rs. 150. But both the parties agreed on 175. The tuktuk ride @ 5 – 5.30 in the morning was hell, open on all sides, the cold air crept through every possible region in our body. The ride took us along a road, around which we saw some mountains and a faint orange light creeping through it, the dawn was about to break, in another 30 minutes, close to 6 – 6.30 were there at Sandshi, the road ended abruptly. We were greeted with dogs ! nothing new for their cousins 🙂 But this time around they were wagging their tails and licking… We were lucky this time. After a few words with the Villager, he asked us to get a guide who’d show the route in the forest. He even wished us good morning by a tale of a guy who had died trying to come down the forest. We didn’t want that, so we agreed on one, he called Balu, who seemed to be in his late 30s or so. He was brushing, he asked how much would we give him, Ankush answered 100, to which he immediately agreed. Damn… We could have offered a little less. He came back dressed for the trek, with a scythe hanging to his back. We were ready to leave around 7.15am.

The trail started from the back side of the village, from there we could see 3 mountains, to the left was Dhak Bahiri and the right most was Rajmachi. we moved ahead from the fields, in the cold air. We took few leaks here and there as we kept moving towards the base of mountain. As we moved ahead we saw that Dhak Bahiri (DB) was a pretty vertical cliff from what we could see. Most of the mountain was flat rock face. As we moved ahead Balu narrated the story of the guy who fell from the cliff in the evening, he had lost his path while coming down and was searching for water, when he lost his balance and fell. The villagers searched for 5 days before they found him. The story was not exactly what we’d expected of him, but … that was fair warning on his end. OK. We were lucky to get a guide every time we thought the split path moved in a particular direction for DB, Balu took the other side. We were also followed by the Dog and its wife I guess. As we moved ahead, Balu pointed us a thick black line almost at the top of the mountain, it was about 30-40 feet below the summit. That was DB caves, and where the Bahiri devi idol is placed. And that is where we had to go… ! What !!! It seemed impossible, the Thick black line was amidst a big flat rock face of the mountain, nothing that we could see from here could lead to that feature. We moved on.

Moving ahead, we kept shifting to the right side, I asked Balu if we were going around the mountain, to which he replied an implicit “Yes”. Half-an-hour more of climbing rocks, jungle trail, etc and we came to a flat land. Most of us had water over there. Balu pointed us back to the hick black line, the DB caves. This time he showed us another thing, an orange dot, which he said is the flag just at the edge of the cave. hmm… As we were about to leave Vj spotted a shed snake skin, and close to it I found another. We were quick enough to hang it in our hands. The skin was fresh, there was some moisture in it. That means we have snakes around !!! I took both the skins and put it in the newspaper and into my bag. A leak and we moved ahead.

Now the climb had started to steepen. And unlike the normal treks that we had done, in which a steep climb stretch was followed by a simple walk, this trek had no such hospitality in its store for the Mumbai guests. It just continued. My last night’s stomach cleaning operation was not enough to subside my bowels, while we were climbing I had to … I asked Vj and all to move ahead and stop. I searched for a nice clean flat rock. I know its embarrassing to read, but it is important if you are a first-timer in a jungle. I saw the troop above me, Ankush shouted, “फोटो काढू का”, and I yelled a yes back. Finally found a nice flat rock, which was near cliff about 10-40m above the terrain. Few minutes, Vartak foundation was laid and I was back with the group. I too had achieved Nirvana. Yes. My day was now going to go fine, no tension.

The trail now had changed into a deep-jungle trail, the canopy of trees was enough to make the area dark. Balu who had been going freely, was now calculative enough, trying to cross-check the trail if it was the right one. I’m sure without his help, we would have missed the right trail. Jungles, big boulders, shrubs, thorny plants, sticking seeds, Cattle shit, all accompanied us through. The climb kept getting steeper. Now all of us had started to get a little tired. Vikrant who had come on a trek after a long time stopped for a break frequently. The break broke our momentum. We too started to feel the heat as sun now leaped into the sky and turned a cool morning into a damp, sweaty, hot jungle.

We kept going ahead, It was almost 2hrs now and I asked Balu how much farther do we have to go. He said “Yes more, a little more”. I think none of the villagers anywhere in India can estimate time. Nowhere have we found one individual predicted the right time or even the right distance. We had now lost the sight of DB caves, as we had moved to another mountain. We know this because, we had once climbed down and back again for a brief period. This is the most simple signs of switching the mountains. We had done this twice now. The 9.30 sun was now really hot, the dogs still continuing with us always took time relax in shade. The last time I had climbed for this long was during Mauli, and it ended … but not this one. We drifted along. Balu still having enough energy to hop and move ahead.

Another hr. or so had passed, it was almost 3hrs of steep climb, which had left us tiered. Our lower calf muscles were now aching. But not yet we moved. We chewed Balu’s head, with our single question, “How long before we reach the top?”, “A little bit more” ! but finally our efforts were awarded by a clean sky above, the top. Phew.. it had almost taken us 3 hrs. to reach.

I moved ahead where I saw a two mountains coinciding, making a crevice. I ventured a little further… wo !!! All I could see was a splendid valley through it. It was like standing just behind a “V”, and through the V all you see is sky and the valley. I had read about it, this was the “Nali”, or the small path between the two mountains. I’d read that we had to climb down from here. But to where ? I couldn’t see any terra-firma below.. As Vikrant finally came trailing along, we had a few snaps. Balu said we’ve got to go from there. We looked at each other, “फटी”. But as we moved ahead down the crevice, which could accommodate no more than a single person, the descent was steep, we literally had to have our hands along the rocks, and let our bodies slide to the ground below, we moved a little further… We came across a huge boulder, which blocked the view, I moved aside only to see nothing but valley. I stopped there, Balu came from back and promptly climbed from the side and went below, I was amazed to see him do that, I gathered some grit and moved ahead to see him climb down a 6-foot wall which led him to a ground which was about 5sq.m. Ahead was the valley. Tackling a 6 foot wall was normal for me, except the height at which it was, I managed to get down and stand on the solid ground. When I came down, Balu said the big boulder had come down in rains which blocked the route, and made this bit little difficult. As he waited and directed Ankush to come down , I gathered my courage and moved a little further, to see a small 1foot wide road to left and another generic rock feature to right, below .. the valley. I thought it was this 1 foot road that we had to take, As everybody came down. I saw a similar feeling in them. Vj moved ahead and pointed towards the road to the right, I saw none, he said we had to move further below to that road on the right, Balu also spotted another lad coming from that road, he’d been coming from the caves. The dogs that had been following us were now crying… they were too fearful of climbing down that feature where all they could see ahead was the deep valley, but they knew that Balu and other guys had gone down, so it was still safe to get down, but couldn’t muster courage. I and Vj moved to the right where little bit ahead we could see the road which was literally carved into the rock. All of us had some water over there. Balu managed to get the dog down, but the bitch was still at the top, screaming, crying… Ankush said “That is common in girls, God has given them the same feature set”. Ankush took out his camera and started to shoot the video. The bitch finally made it down, still crying.

That was some experience! but it was just the beginning.

As we treaded along the narrow road, putting the balance on the rocks to the right, cause at this height none of us were sure if our balance was good enough to make us walk a 2 foot road, to its left was the valley. We moved ahead till we were not sure where to go. Vj now pointed me to the Dark thick line that we saw at the bottom. That was the same feature, it was the Dhak bahiri cave that we saw, we also saw the orange flag just at the edge of the cave. OK, we’ve reached here, but how to go to that cave…

Balu came from the back and he moved ahead, along a narrow road just about 1 foot wide winding down.. I wasn’t sure if we should follow. But he looked back and gestured us to follow him. Unsure of our fate now.. we followed him. I could sense the tension, fear in everyone. To the left I saw the valley, but immediately below the cliff I saw the terrain, still it was around 100 ft. below. But that was more comforting than the full valley. I think this view made us follow Balu. We suddenly saw Balu climb the flat rock. A careful look and I could see some rock features carved which helped him to climb above, we followed slowly.. We all were very excited, Vj, me and Ankush had waited for this for 3 months or so.. the Dhak Bahiri rock climb. It was here, we were doing it. I too didn’t realize that I was there. I always thought it was too difficult for us to do. No. But we were there. we moved along to the right, the caves now much clearer. Then a little ahead Balu waited. We wondered why. Then Balu suddenly started climbing straight, 90 degrees up. I saw him climbing the similar rock features that resembled a rung, carved into the rock. we followed him. He moved further to the left and waited near a small flat piece of land. We waited till everybody was there.

Now I could see the rung to the right, and then…nowhere. Balu climbed that rung and like an expert climber, shifted his weight weight and moved his left foot on a natural edge where he steadied himself and climbed further towards the left. A little bit more and he waited again on a flat piece of land. “Wo ho…” more of natural rock climb… we continued behind him.

We stood there, now the sun was scorching.. it was close to 11 and was really hot. luckily it wasn’t sweaty as in Mumbai. Balu now pointed us to the right towards the cave. We could see just below the cave were 3 big ropes dangling, attached to the ropes were bamboos. And they were not cut totally, they had their offshoots cut. With that it resembled a stem with its thorns pointing out. For us it was much more, it was something to climb on, those bamboo offshoots. Balu warned us that this final stretch was a little tricky and we should be careful and concentrating. He moved to the right and climbed through the rock feature towards a flat wall, where he carefully put his weight to the walls and smoothly but slowly move towards the dangling ropes. I advised ankush to follow him. The flat rock was was tricky to navigate as all we got to place our foot was around 2 inches rock cut.

While I was still waiting down, I saw Balu grab the ropes, and climb the perfectly 90 degree cliff with help of the bamboo.. He was skillful at what he was doing. As I saw his skills, he was through, in the caves. He peeked down and was advising Ankush on the rope climb. He kept shouting, “Do not let go the ropes, whatsoever!!!” Akush too some how managed to climb. But then midway between the ropes, Ankush just stayed there. He couldn’t find any feet to place and push ahead. Somehow sticking his body to the ropes, the bamboos, he manged to climb into the caves. Vikrant was next to follow. He somehow managed his muscle power and moved into the cave. Vj was next, he grabbed the rope, when I moved along the flat rock feature till the base of the ropes. The first half of ropes was navigated easily by Vj till he reached the halfway mark, where he couldn’t find anything to put his feet on. He tried … when he suddenly found himself swirling to the right with the ropes, मेरी तो फटी. I was never so scared my whole life as when I saw Vj dangling. I asked Vj to calm himself, wait. He did that, and very successfully manged to get into the cave. Now it was my turn. I did the first half of rope easily. Now was the difficult part, I too couldn’t find anywhere to put my feet on. I just had two ropes, and bamboo to hold. This was where I tried to pull a little stunt, something that I’m used to. Climbing a 6 foot flat wall with absolutely nothing to place your foot on. I managed to move the ropes and the bamboo 1 foot wide and using full power of my hands, I pulled myself up, just trying to scrape the bamboo with my shoes, I knew I couldn’t put any weight on my shoes, my legs. Just a little rest of shoes on the bamboos. I pulled myself further up till I got something to land my feet on, then there was a rounded Orange rock to which the rope was tied along. I grabbed hold of it and pulled myself into the cave right in front of the Bahiri goddess, painted bright orange with the lead colouring.

पैसा वसूल

, I shouted to Ankush, to which he gave a broad smiled and yelled back…

वसूल !

It was 11.15, it took us 1hr from the “nali” till up here in the cave. We were all tiered and hungry. We moved to the right of the cave where we saw chicken bones all over, people come here and cook food, chicken and enjoy. I went back to main cave, where I saw 2 water cisterns filled with water, with a yellowish green coating. I looked beneath the water, were big utensils, lying at the base around 3-4 feet below. We all agreed, that we should have food, and we sat near the cistern, opening our bread loaves, Cakes, Biscuits, etc. We joked all the way. We joked how much Vj had put up (in his big belly). To which Ankush laughed remembering Mukti’s statement in Gujrati, She’d quoted her mother, In English it translated .. “Eat and u die, Don’t eat and u die, better eat and die”. I know I’ll get the exact local version of it in the comment, please do the needful Mukti.

After having our food, we laid back. Joking… Vikrant joked, “I’m not coming down, I’ll stay here for rest of my life, I’ll marry here as well.” Ankush said “I’ll ask the government to get you down”. To which he said “OK, only if they get a chopper over here.”. It was close to 12, I asked everybody to to get up. Vikrant said, “let me sleep before I die, or else my soul will trouble the villagers”. We had enough jokes, rest, till 12.15 when I got up and asked everyone to be on their feet. None of us wanted hot rocks beneath our palms. They were already heating for 3 hrs in the sun. We all got up and moved towards the rope and stood still. We could see nothing below. How do we climb down ? !!!

Balu asked us to get down, to which we replied “But how ?!!”, I asked. To which Balu replied by grabbing the ropes, and moved down. He placed his right foot on some edge which I couldn’t see. But I believed him all this way through, and had to continue to do that. I followed him slowly, Then came the half way rope hurdle. But this time it was easier. All I did was release the grip of rope on one had, while I gripped other even more firmly, and then the other hand… and so on. And I was back at the base of rope. I yelled back to guys at the top to follow my instructions, Ankush, Vikrant started…

Balu by now had crossed the flat rock feature which was the worst, at first I was so scared to let loose the rope grip and move down towards the left on a descending rock feature. but somehow I let go the rope and moved ahead. I moved a little further till I reached the flat rock, where I was stuck. My feet were stationary , I couldn’t see how I could place my next foot on the rock, which was just about 2 inches. But somehow I manged to do that, I placed my body weight to the right on the rock, I was careful not to put all the weight on the right, that could have made me loose my foot grip and sliding down. Now that I’d placed one foot, it was time for another, and that was when I was shocked with fear, I had to somehow make enough room between my foot and the rock face to allow my next foot to go ahead.. Some how I managed to do it, and moved ahead after that it was little simpler descend to the flat rock where Balu was standing instructing others down the rope.

I too stood there and waited for others to get down, Everytime the lads came to that flat rock feature, I advised them to stay calm, while I myself got extremely tensed, I could feel the sweat in my palms. Luckily enough everyone did well and reached. Balu now swiftly descended further, with Ankush following him. I was now waiting … But the next descend even though tricky and difficult was nothing compared to the descend of the flat rock wall, that we’d just been through. Another 15 more minutes of rock climb took us to the flat road that lead back to “Nali”. But this was not the route were using to go back, we were going to take a straight route down towards the village instead of the winding, coiling road along the mountains. The climb down was a straight one along the ladders carved into the stone, till we were into a thick dense shrubs and trees. The dogs were still following us, they never came to the caves but waited there till we came down.

The route down was amongst thick bushes, full of thorns, fallen trees, rocky gravel. But it was infinite times safer than what we had been through. I and Vj were thankful we’d not managed to get any other colleague with us. We just didn’t want that little extra responsibility during that descend and climb. The route took us dowm, it was a steep route, I and Vj were sure that it was that of a rivulet flowing down in the rains. We continued down..

It was now more than 2 hrs and we were still descending, we all were now extremely tired, Vikrant was exhausted. We were not doing anything better. But we worked ourselves down.. I joked with Ankush “किस चूतियेने कहा था डाक बहिरी आने के लिये”. We all laughed.. trying to rest ourselves. Balu said that we could get the ST @ 3.00 from the village, but we needed to hurry a little bit, we all agreed to him but we just couldn’t hurry… We all just dragged our bodies down the rocks, boulders, everytime thinking that we were almost there, but only to move ahead and see the valley down… “Nopes, more to go”…

It was now 3.00 and we were still going, we surely had missed the ST, the next one was @4.00. Vikrant said “भाड में जाए वो ST, बैठने दे मुझे” All tried to laugh, Vikrant still using his funnier side to a good effect. We continued, we now saw a flat land, and then a little valley where we had Sandshi village waiting for us. We knew we had yet another mountain to descend before we have our final descent of the last mountain, we managed to move on. I and Ankush discussed that it was the most tiring of all the treks and definitely the most difficult one. It was close to 3.30 when we finally reached the base, but still we had some distance to go before we reached the village. We carried ourselves forward.

We came and sat on the ground at Balu’s house, Vj had asked if he could get any Lassi, or Curd-milk. Balu had come back from the local market with Curd, and had given us curd, water, sugar. We kept on drinking, Vj and I moved towards the Hand pump where we tried to wash our tiredness, which we were somewhat successful. After coming back to the house , we just laid back waiting for the 4.00 ‘o clock bus which never did. Balu said the bus was late and it will probably come at 5.00. To this Vj just went into a deep sleep, I too slept a bit, but was up again. I, ankush and Vikrant were hungry, We manged to find some remaining biscuits and snacks to chew till we waited for the bus.

It was close to 5.00 when Ankush heard the bus coming, I never believed. He had done that many times, his tired body could only hear a roaring bus coming towards Shandshi, but it had this time. We got in, Vj purchased the tickets and … darkness … the bus was in Karjat where Balu got off, he too had come with us till Karjat. Finally we got off at the station, where we found ourselves eating the famous Karjat “Vada Pav”. We had some cold drinks at the stall and waited for the train.

The train came at around 6.40, we got into it. There was enough rush, it seemed like 1/4th of Dadar’s rush hr. We manged to get ourselves the helpful 4th seat. The trains electricity was off, so no fans… who cares… darkness…

Somewhere in the sleep I found the train moving along Kalyan, Dombivli. Then it was passing through the Thane tunnel, where Ankush stood with Vikrant. They got off at Thane, and I knew there were another 3-4 stations before I and Vj got Borivali train @ dadar. Time moved and so did the train. We got off at Dadar, where I was lucky enough to find a Andheri train in the peak hr @ 8.30, Vj waited for a Borivali fast train.

If you were reading all the way long, I know it was tiring for u to read all this, believe me I can understand that, ’cause I’ve actually experienced it.

I reached Home, … Food … then the Darkness till the daylight.

Traveling Directions

  1. Reach Karjat Station (Central Railway) by Train early morning @ 5 or 6
  2. Get a tuktuk (10 seater rickshaw) or ST bus to Sandshi, the base village. Get there by the break of dawn.
  3. Hire a guide to lead you

Sudhagad trek

Mukti and meIt all started with our incessant talks of treks. Me and Vijay always trying to find a Saturday, Sunday home amongst the lovely Sahyadris. And fortunately those who were interested in our talks and plans were the HR. From HR, Gauri who is an experienced climber was assited with Mukti, the ever excited, chirppy girl. All leading only to one result, a big unofficial company trek.

The first aim after 4 of us were in the plan were to gather more guys for the trek, and astonishingly most of the Engg. guys agreed with a few exceptions. Almost 12 guys from the company and another friend of ours Ankush raised the roster count to 13. Now that the enthusiasts were ready, what about the venue, the location, … ? Since most of us were first-timers, it was decided by HR that the trek must be for a beginner. There was a lot of chat, contradictions, etc after visiting http://deepabhi.tripod.com , a very helpful site for as#$% like us. finally the plan was pointing towards Sudhagad, Pali. Gauri had been there once, and said it was a straight-forward trek, good for beginners. !!! HR’s word is final.

While we were trying to figure out the transportation, Gauri had an idea,

Why not hire a tempo-traveller or bus like that.

The idea didn’t go well with Vijay, which made us feel we were planning a picnic, instead of a trek. Official trek transportation is State Transport(S.T.) and Local Trains, and Bus #11. But then finally most of us managed to get Vijay on the Tempo-traveller plan. Gauri, resourcefully arranged for the vehicle and the plan was set, Sat 6 January, 2007, 0500 hrs, Andheri station, the bus shall start for Pali.

 

Friday night sleep wasn’t that great, I had a different thread inheriting a Clock class, which kept running all the night. I woke up @ 2.00 am in the night, just to check what time it was, I had to get up @ 3.30. Finally when I woke up again it was close to 3.30 and the alarm was off, I was brushing when it finally did go up. Thanks to evolution for making the Human Brain’s kernel use multiple threads. At 4.00 I left for Khar Station, got a ticket for Andheri, and boarded the 4.18 train. When I got down at Andheri I heard my stomach crying for food, I had to feed it something, so I got some biscuits. While walking down the SV road, I was not amazed to see many call center guys with their 150cc bikes having tea with all early morning vendors at the tapri. Smell of tea was another thing that I couldn’t resisit, But I did for a small period. I met Sudani, Amol and Neeraj at the BEST stop.

Few minutes later I saw almost whole of the troop come, Vijay leading the way with Santhosh, Awdesh, Mukti, Danny, and others following. After all hi, hellos, good mornings, etc, I couldn’t resist my Tea and took Danny, Ashok and others at the tapri where we had a nice cuppa flavoured with गवती चहा. We returned back at the stop with Danny unable to have a sip, thanks to the stupid tapriwala who cared for everything else except the customers. It was almost 4.45, and Arvind and Gauri had not yet showed up. I was almost certain that Arvind was gonna give us a टांग. Mukti called Gauri only to find her just awaking, thankfully Gauri did make it in another 10 minutes. And… she was another candidate of early morning dope of a hot tea. While having another sip, we spotted the Tempo-traveller making a Pin bend at the corner, Gauri pointed the driver-cleaner towards the Bus stop, at first he was confused, but I think on second thought he must have realized that @ 5.00 am guys at a tapri are not drunk, and probably form the payload.

At the stop everybody was boarding the bus, when I asked Vijay (VJ) to call Ankush to be there at the Vashi bus stop in another 1/2 hr. Awdesh’s call to Arvind had confirmed my doubt, that he was still asleep. And the bus moved in the early morning’s cool mist, creating a turbulence behind on the highway.

Almost @ 5.45 were at the ST stop in Vashi, Vj called Ankush who was on the way. We waited at the stop and had a few snaps, while some of us who wanted to be too close to the nature… had nature calling 😉

rutu-his-leg-vijay-danny mukti-gauri2

Ankush came on a friends bike, he is a true biker, has a bike always under his ass. … and we moved the next stop, Pali. The highway was a nice comfortable one, even on the Panvel exit. Only place where the road took a knocking was at the Pali exit. A typical unmaintained highway. Vj, Mukti tried to get the early sun rays troubling the aperture’s sleep.

sunrise

We cruised along till we finally reached a village, no other than Pali. Where Gauri had to eat a वडा पाव. Not many could curtail their urges of having a fresh, hot one. I denied, Vijay had a Saturday fast, god knows for what reasons. Mukti had some answer, which I shall keep it for her to respond. Everybody was having the hot vada, when my Mumbaikar soul couldn’t control the view of everybody having the staple Mumbai food. At last, I too had it.

sarsgad
Sarasgad, much closer to Pali

While we were having our stomachs working… Vijay’s extrovert nature had him talking with the गााव वाले. He found out the nearest base for Sudhagad was some village Dhodse or something, I don’t remember. And that specific trail was a bit exciting as well. So the next stop was the village, where we had to move on a road whose’s width could hold only 1 vehicle. We managed to reach the village somehow even after missing a turn. It was around 8.45 when we reached to a spot where we saw a board bearing the name of the village, a spot to park the vehicle and a definite trail… This was it.

Another flirt with the nature and we started moving along the trail where we reached a split. where we inquired a man about the right way to Sudhagad and he advised us to get a guide who’d charge around Rs.100 and he’d be useful to navigate through tricky splits that were around. A small discussion and we “OKeyd” for the guide. we sat there for a while, Vj spotted a cut spherical rock, probably twice the size of a canon ball, and tried lifting it… Even Vj the strongest man ( did I say heaviest.. 😉 ) in our team couldn’t lift it. Within few minutes, the same guy now draped in a shirt came with a scythe. He spotted the ball, and promptly lifted it from the middle of the road and put it on the other side and pushed it away. we had some jokes on Vj for that. Mukti saw the “weapon” in the guide (mama)’s hand and wondered about stories which Vj had fed, about localites looting the trekkers. But that was not the case and he moved swiftly past us, leading us.

We moved along till we came what we thought was a river bed. Some of our lads thought it was right time to have a “dry bath” ! And most of us managed to get in the frame.

all5
at the river bed

…and the trek actually started, with less no. of stops, more of climbing, more of exertion, more of adventure, and finally and not the least less of a picnic.

I was at the back, with all the back-benchers, Vj was somewhere ahead of us, mama was leading with all the new recruits, like Rajoba, Neeraj, Awdesh trailing him. Ankush kept migrating from front to back. Mukti was at the back as well, and she was the one adding fuel to jokes on herself. We reached a point where we saw everybody waiting for the last comers. Mama had a question.

इकडून कठीण वाट आहे, आणि सरळ वाट इकडून

Vj was firm on the difficult route, I too was interested in it, Mama was not confident whether Mukti could make it through the difficult path, he advised the easier one, “which even the elders can take”. Mukti, ever so excited, was offended… Throw some Attitude… “Lets take the hard one”, … bravo…

Now mama showed why he carried the “weapon”, cutting the leaves, branches along, making a way through the hills. While everybody now started to feel the difficulty, it was still normal going for Ankush, me and Vijay, since we do this almost every month or so. But not for all.

Moving along the forest Moving along the forest

Another hr., we moved slowly, climbing the rocks, over loose soil and rock combination, as the time moved ahead, the distance between the skillfull climbers and others increased, with me still at the last after the slow climbers. I had Mukti, Neeraj in front of me. Neeraj had some weird shoes, which he was not comfortable in climbing, adding to his misery was a very heavy bag on his shoulders. Mukti was doing good, but at her own pace. Vijay and Ankush kept moving to and fro in the long file.

Mukti was fun to be around with, she has some sort of disorder which makes her laugh suddenly, which can go on for minutes together till she finally releases the details. Later Ankush, Gauri and almost all confirmed “isko daure aaten hain”.

Further ahead, we had to climb a steeper rock, which everybody managed to deal with a little difficulty, but with a positive result. Neeraj, Mukti and myself were the last, till we came a point where I saw Vj, Rajoba, Ashok and Ankush near a cistern in a small cave. I tried climbing from a very awkward rock cliff, which I couldn’t but then I circumnavigated it to reach the place, even Neeraj swiftly came behind, however I was holding his bag now.

Mukti stood there alone trying to figure out where should she move next, towards the cave or towards the other route where everybody were pushing ahead. She stood there. We asked her to move along the right side along a simple climb where we all joined her after descending that cave.

vijay-ankush-rutu vijay-amol-ashok

Another 15 mins took us to the peak, where there was just a fort wall, where we sat and quenched ourselves. I saw a small opening in the wall, into which was a steep climbing staircase, it reminded me of the air columns(pipes) in the Pyramids, thanks to NGC. I quickly moved into it and climbed … At the top, I saw some roots, at left there were some more of these roots. finally I came out of that air pipe, to the top, the top of the fort. I ran to the wall where I could see everybody sitting down. Ankush followed me as well.

At the top, Anksush asked me if I saw the creatures. I was unaware. I hadn’t seen any. But then Ankush reminded me of the Roots, which were moving, probably due to air currents or something. They were not plants, they were Spiders, with a body of 1mm3, but legs at least 5-10cm long. All creeping over each other.. in 1000s, no wonder they looked like some roots (moving ones). Eeaww… ! I climbed down swiftly trying to keep myself apart from them, Ankush followed down as well, but as soon Ankush climbed down of the stairs, suddenly 10 -20 spiders fell from the roof top on the stairs… That was a close call for Ankush. Mukti shrieked to her hearts extent.

Bad news for Mukti, we had to climb the stairs, to reach the top. But as sporting she was from the start, she did manage to get herself at the top.

Once at the top, the sun was on its full. Enough light, enough heat! Mama showed us a temple, where everybody got into to escape the heat and the sun. I went to the shadow of the temple, took a rock under my head and layed on the ground with another guy to my side, the temple Dog !

Sometime later, all came out, and I was the first one to express my need for food, and everybody was hungry as well. We decided to go to a hut, which was donated by the locals. Probably meant for people coming to Sudhagad, who can rest, have their food etc. And we had opened our bags, to get the food out. Bread was having a major stake in our diet this noon, more than 70%.

At lunch we all were eating bread, jam and butter. Few were having something else, Some had got some std. gujju snacks and mukti had got the traditional thepla. Most of us could control the extra bread intake, except for Danny, he was ON after having that extra bread. He was dancing… singing… weirdly, none of us had seen Mr. Route Nat this way. We tried to calm him down with whatever we had, some offered water, juice, etc. I tried to calm him down with the traditional way, I threw my shoes at him, but to no avail. He kept on going … We offered the caretaker some food, and Rs.20 to which he agreed to show us the takmaktok, the place from where traitors, prisoners were killed by pushing them into the deep valley.

The caretaker, danny, ashok and neeraj moved ahead quickly, while I was trying to find Vj and Santhosh, who’d probably gone to capture something. We roamed around till we saw a deep square dry well. So many adjectives… One more … creepy, this well was full with those spiders, in thousands. we threw a rock the bunch till they moved and Vj probably got that in the Video. Finally we decided its time to catch up with danny and others who’d gone ahead. But still we managed to wait and take snaps…

rutu mukti-rutu
all4 all2

Finally the photo session was over and we moved into the sun, searching danny and others, but they were nowhere to be seen. While I and Santhosh found some interesting, tibia and fibia of some animal mostly cattle category.. handled it, tried to break it by banging on the rock. The excitement ended almost instantly when we found that the bone was from a kind of fresh carcass. At first we thought the thing is totally dry, but as we closed … it was stenching badly… we moved quickly toward the other group, who’d wisely moved away from the carcass.

Further ahead we heard voices that I thought were that of Danny, but it was some loudspeaker in the valley ! the voice was coming clean and clear. It was some puja, but not Danny’s voice. Luckily we saw Sudani come from the distance. Who asked us to go further ahead towards the takmaktok. We reached there, Ankush was the first one and bravest of all to go till the cliff’s end and take peek, I too tried, which ushered an unknown feeling in my guts. We sat there and took more snaps.

towards-takmaktok towards-takmaktok towards-takmaktok
towards-takmaktok towards-takmaktok

Some of the guys hesitated to come near the cliff, but it was their wish. As we finished the cliff session, we moved on towards the final descent, towards the “Big dwaar”, which was the route mama had offered to take while climbing. The Door was a gigantic one, with standard hard-bound rock walls. This fort had a circular entrance, which is difficult to attack than a standard straight one. We had some water over there and thanks to Vj, more photos.

The circular entrance down at the door

From there on, the next stop was straight at the Base village, with some small stops for water, etc. We had good time descending, with even Gauri joining the laughter club, the topics didn’t go any far. All stayed around danny’s lunch show, which was still on, and Vj’s jokes (we need a different category for Vj’s jokes) and Mukti.

At the base Vj, me, Amol and danny had a nice bath (almost) at the hand pump, drank water till our bladders bloated. We decided to visit Pali’s Ashtavinayak. The temple was full of devotees, the line was a long one, it was out of question for anyone of us to be in there, so Gauri decided she shall have a quick look and come back, so did everybody.

After satisfying the auspicious God with bows, namaskars and all, it was time to Satisfy the Mr. Stomach. Ankush and Gauri again had to eat a vada pav, I settled for a “Kokam sharbat” (which tastes like Breezer – Mukti) in the nearby hotel, where everybody just sat wherever they could. Then there was chaos all over, with everybody wanting something, but later deciding to go with what the other had ordered, the waiter-uncle somehow managed to stay calm and astonishingly got the right no. of dishes for everybody (after all its his job to satisfy idiots like us)

Stomachs calmed down… now was the time for the trip back to Mumbai which seemed like months before we had been there. Luckily the tempo-traveller was booked to make us feel Mumbai a little closer. Unfortunately it was nowhere to be seen. I, Vj and Ankush moved ahead to search the vehicle to find it parked under a Banyan tree.

The vehicle moved amidst the busy small lane of Pali, and guess what, in the one-way. There were other S.T.s, vehicles coming in that lane, but our driver somehow managed to keep a face that stated “I’m right, they are wrong”. The driver was on some kind of ecstasy drug or something of that sort, atleast everybody felt that. He always took the wrong turn in the wrong lane and was very rash. Obviously he didn’t escape the teacher’s scolding.

Once on the highway, the Cleaner put some compilation CD which everybody in the bus applauded for and sang the songs. Sleep, tiredness, more jokes (jocks) came along.. till we reached Vashi where Ankush leaped off … and so on, Rajoba got down at Bandra and myself at Santacruz, after that… I guess everybody reached home safely and dozed off till the next day.

Replication: Same Server, Rewrite database

MySQL support same-server replication into another database, Its quite a weired requirement, but in reality weired is common.

Consider a server 192.168.5.70, which has 2 databases db1 and db2
Now we shall set up replication for two tables on db1, ie. table1 and table2.

Here is the my.cnf

[mysqld]
server-id=1
#### Replication ####
report-host=master-is-slave-host
log-bin=192.168.5.70-binlog
relay-log=192.168.5.70-relaylog

replicate-same-server-id=1

binlog-do-db=db1

# Note.... On rewrite, the  command is changed into buffer
# so the replicate-do-db and replicate-do-table should have the
# re-written db name.
replicate-rewrite-db=db1->db2
replicate-do-table=db2.table1
replicate-do-table=db2.table2

Lets look at it carefully.

replicate-same-server-id=1
This is to tell the slave the commands that it has to execute will be having the same server-id as its own.

binlog-do-db=db1
To log only database db1

replicate-rewrite-db=db1->db2
Let the slave know that whatever command is for db1 it has to execute on db2

replicate-do-table=db2.table1
replicate-do-table=db2.table2

Note how the table in db2 is replicated, as against the general thinking of db1.table1, MySQL could be using some buffered string and then evaluating the replicate-do-table rule.

Fedora 6 Hindi Support with SCIM – फेडोरा 6 और हिंदी

Fedora 6 gives one of the best support for Indic (Indian – South Asian) languages. It compiles its default Web Client, and Mail client with Pango Support to enable the complex rendering of the Indic fonts. The Default Firefox and Thnderbird thus harness the true power.

SCIM Gnome System Tray
SCIM in GNOME’s System Tray
SCIM's Toolbar
SCIM’s Toolbar

Enabling Hindi Support

Login as a root user, and then use the following command.
yum groupinstall <language>-support
In case of Hindi, I’ve used, yum groupinstall hindi-support

This will install basically three things.

  • Hindi fonts
  • SCIM, Simple Common Input Method
  • Open Office Hindi Language Pack

Once done, Just run scim-setup from the console, to setup the SCIM for the first time, and then Log-off and log-in again.

Configuring Hindi typing

One of the major hurdles in using Indic languages is to type them. But SCIM’s magic works like a charm. On logging back again, you’ll find a small box in your System tray, Just right click on it to select the type of input format you want. Here is the list that it specifies

  • English/European
  • Hindi – inscript
  • Hindi – itrans
  • Hindi – phonetic
  • Hindi – remington
  • Hindi – typewriter
  • English/Keyboard
SCIM's Menu
SCIM’s Menu

I prefer Hindi – phonetic, which basically maps the keyboard for its syllables and consonants. For eg.

हिंदी = hiMdI

The user can always switch between the input methods, by clicking the system tray icon, and selecting the input method as English/keyboard.

शुक्रीया फेडोरा

Tabs and Chords: Pal pal har pal – Lage raho Munna bhai

This entry is part 25 of 41 in the series Guitar

The song Pal Pal Pal Pal Har Pal from the movie Lage Raho Munna bhai is a simple and a wonderful song played in the scale of A with F#m, E and A.

Tabs: Starting Introduction

* Indicates fast Up/Down strumming

e|----------16--14*----16--14*--|
b|--12--14----------------------|

e|--16--14--12------14--12*--14--12*--14--12*|
b|--------------14---------------------------|

The chords of the songs go as follows.

pal pal pal pal har pal har pal
F#m
kaise katega pal har pal har pal
F#m          E
pal pal pal pal har pal har pal
E               F#m
kaise katega pal har pal har pal
F#m          E
dil dil dil dil mein machi hain machi
E               A
machi hain hulchul hulchul hulchul
A          E
kaise katega pal har pal har pal x2
F#m                      E

 

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