Gwalior’s Tourist Attractions II

Symbol Of Unity
Near the fort the stone was carved and a cave was made near the base of fort. “EN-ULLAH SHAH” a poet of Gwalior used to live in this cave. His poems were in the name of “EN”. “EN- ULLAH” was born in 1818. He passed away in 1902 at the age of 84 years. CHildhood of En-Ullah was passed in Gwalior. For sometime he went to Delhi, Rajasthan and Bundelkhand. En-Ullah was of serious nature from his childhood. Mostly he wore cap with threads on top and yellow long Kurta.

Kundliya Shali are of special significance in Hindi litetature of Tehm Girdhar Kundliya are famous. In area nearer to Gwalior Keshav das wrote certain Kundliyas in Ram Chandrika. En Sahib has maximum collection of Kundlis. En Ullah Shan used to pass his maximum time in the company of beggers, saints and literary persons. En-Ullah wrote in his Kundli about Ainanand fakir hai Paramhans Nirpan Dadi Mooch Modwate Bhasam kare Asnan Mene ek he brahm, Turf Hindy se Nayari Bhikshuk Dou din ke “EN” hamara Nam.

One day En in the company of a begger started from his house and reached Delhi on foot. Fida Hussain a literary person was influence by Saint became his disciple. He started living in Gwalior after 6 months with the permission on his Guru. En Ullah writes in his Kundlis about the greatness of his

“Jo Nr Pave aap ko ti Narayan Aap
Aap bina nar karat hai, Aap apno jaap”
Aap aapno jaap aapko pavat nahin,
jo pave par aapko to aap gusain
ek bin guru gyan ke nar bhoge jagtap.

En Ullah Shah had many Hindu and Muslim disciples in Gwalior. First of all Raja Balchander ji became the disciple of En-Ullah Shah; Gopal poets name also finds place in the disciples of En Ullah Shah. En Ullah Shah gave his dictates in form of Kundlis. Where in he has taught lesson of peace, Dharam and unity. En Ullah behaviour was alike with everyon. Without any discrimination he behaved with equal love and goodwill. Once JivajiRao Scindia Maharaja of Gwalior sent a horse and a Dushala for him. He did nor accept this and sent a “Ub kya chaihyuai sadhu ko sabhi diya bhagwan, kapde khak masan ke, kand mul phal khan. kand mul phal khan, nadi jal peevan dini, Khappar dono haath gupha rehne ko dini. Vicharan ko charon disha “En”bhog ko gyan” LITERATURE OF EN ULLAH. is primarily found in Gwalior, Datia, Jaipur, Alwar & Jodhpur, Following are the achievments of literature of En Ullah.
KUNDLY COLLECTION – On dummy of ghamgin is in Gwalior. There are about 200 pages. Size of pandulipi is 7*9″.

SELF PUBLICATION – This book was written in Jaipur; and came into being in 1902. There are 575 pages in this pandulipi. Its size is 7*9″.

TEACHINGS- In this Lord Krishna’s teachings in kurukshetra are described and there is description of Krishan – Bhakti. There are 200 Kundlis in this pandulipi and there are 67 pages. Size is 7*9″. One kundli of this granth is –

SIDHAANT SARIKA – In this granth four sufimat ciz Sahriyat, Marphat, Tarikat, and Hakikat have been explained in the light of Indian Spiritualism. There are about 100 Kundlis and Dona, Saroth chopai etc in this granth. One example is illustrated Teen haraf hai ishak ke En, kaaf aur Sheen, En badavat akal ko, Sheen Sharam le cheen, Sheen sharam le cheen, kaaf karar badayai yeh sabra ho jabhi tabhi tuk darshan payai Teen teeno haraf “En ” lete hain been.

AINANAND SAGAR- This is an incomplete granth. It contains Doha, Sarotha, chopayain. This has been called heelre in chapters(pathon) its subject is to appreciate Kavi Labhatta God’s love, and God’s prayer. There are more granths of En Ullah Shah apart from these En Ullah Shah has made adhyatmak Darshan an important subject of his poetry and the way in which he has intelligently and ably summed up in kundis is really amazing. His works for Ram and Krishan through light in Brahm. Apart from this they corelate Sufi principles with Indian adhyatamikta side by side. En Ullah Shah’s poetry proves himself as a great poet and his teaching encourage unity and amity. In the light of Kundlis it is imperative to write shodh karya on En Ullah born and brought up in Gwalior, a shodh prabandh has been written on life of “En” and his poetry by bundelkhand University which is a good begining.

Near By Chambal
There is a reference in historic grangh Mahabharat of sacred river Charanvati “CHAMBAL”, of various rivers of India, which is only 30K. Ms. away from Gwalior. Thusand years hence, man civilisation entered in the northern Ghati of this river. There are more than 30 archaeological places in Morena district situated in chambal ghati since Mahabharat era to mid era. Some beautiful Samaraks standing on these places are cultural Herritage of this country. They are highlighting history and with the historic background abundant pleasure is realised in seeing them.

Rock Pictures Of Pahargarh
50 K. Ms. away from Morena dist. Hd. Qr. /is Pahargarh and 120 K. Ms. east -south are found 86 caves which can be of the same period as that of Bhim Batika caves found near Bhojpur. Man used to get Shelter in the begining of civilisation. That period has been adjudged as ten thousand years before Chirst. On seeing the rockpainting of men and women dance, . . . . .. this becomes amply clear that in the prehistoric period human art and love had its germination; and for _expression they could find fast colours.

Kutwar – Old Town
Oldest town Kuntalpur(today’sKutwar) of Chambal ghati is like Hastinapur, Bajgiri(Rajgarh) and chedi, is a Mahabharat times spot. It has in its innerside hidden many answers to many questions of Indian history. As per Mahabharat, Shrimadbhagwat, Vishnupuran, Harivansh Puran historic events ans old political geographic gist of all granths is that nearby Jamuna and Upper area of Chambal was part of state of Shursen. Pratha one of the daughters of Raja Shursen whom he has given for adoption to his friend Kunti-Bhoj. Pratha has Sahodar brother Vasudev. She being brought up by Kunti Bhoj used to be called as Kunti. Raja Kunti Bhoj’state was in the south of chambal. Kunti bhoj was killed at the hand of Dronacharya in Mahabharat. This state was famous as KUNTIKHESHETRA and touched Danti-durg (Datia). For thousands of years one place behind fort in Kotwar is known as Karankhar;from where Kunti had kept her newly born in Manjusha and swayed in river Ashav(AASSAN). This Manjusha reached Chambal through Aasan. One spot is famous as Suryavah where on invitation of Kunti God Sun had reached. On a high hilock on the bank of Ashav river ther are horse’s foot prints from the times immemorable to illustrate this strange occurence. One temple has been ruined reconstructed near this place in the past. It is thought to be SUN-TEMPLE. SIHONIYA CAPITAL OF KACHVAHAS About 8th Century in the downfull era of Kanoj Samrajya Kachapghat(Kachvah)state was established in Chambal Ghati. Its first capital was KUTWAR and second was SUHANIA. IN 977 the capital was brought at Gwalior fort after removing the Pratihar power of Kanoj. 155 feet high Shiv Mandir of Kachwaha era like Khujrao’s huge Rath Mandir is a big SAMARAK of northern India. About this temple it is inscribed on SAS BAHU temple :- ADBHUT SINHPANIYAI NAGRE YEN KARTIKAA KRITI SANTAMBH HAVE BHAANTI PRASAD PARVATOPATE

KAKANMATH is the famous name abscribed for the pyramid type structure in the area of 2 K. Ms. are God Shantinath, Kuhthanath and Ahannath which are 16′, 8′-8’high statues and 20 feet high statue of HANUMAN JI standing on a chabutra of a raised platform of a Ruinned temple, Ambika Mandir and Kund. Prastarstambh and Nandi lying in a field are worth seeing. Shal Bhanjika, Sakhalat vasna Nayaka, Kamniyai, Apsarain, Gujri-Mahal archaeological museum are attributing grace to Gwalior.

Son Chiraya Abhyaranya
In northern M. P. in north -western Distirct of Shivpuri Karera abhyaranya is being estanlished speedly near town Karera. For Miltiplication of attractive bird”Son Chiraya” under great Indian Bustard it was established in 1981. The area of this Abhayaranyai is 202 K. Ms. which is 55 K. Ms. from Jhansi, 60K. Ms. from Shivpuri, 135K. Ms. from Gwalior and 73 K. Ms. from Orcha. This is the only Abhyaranyai of India. In between Mahur and Sindh river this is the only big area in the country which constitutes of either govt. land or private land. From the print of existence, vegetation and landscape this is quite befitting. This breed is always present to greet the visitors at times alone, at times with pertner and at times in flock in the Abhyaranyai area. Asper 1992 counting of forest animals and birds the figure of Son Chiraya is 18. This bird is a little shorter with long neck and black KALGE on its head. The colour of the feathers is of the colour of meat with blace and brown stripes on them; with strong long brown legs and white lower portion. Male is comperatively heavy and more beautiful. There is a long pounch on the neck of the male which is capable of filling air in it and by throwing it out forcefully the male makes the atmosphere very melodious. This pounch comes into being when this bird lives alone. The male by various designs and by his noise (Gunjan) attracts the female and there by alarms other males of his presence so that they do not enter his territory.

Another special feature of this Abhyaranya is the presence of black bucks. At the time of inception of this Abhyaranya in 1981 their number was 100-150 which rose to 3005 as per counting of 1992. Flocks of black bucks can be seen in hundreds grazing in the Abhyaranya. This four legged animals because of gait race and jumps spach good looking in the universe. Apart from black bucks chinks, foxes and.. . etc. Jungle animals are found in plenty.

Another attraction of this Abhyaranya is Dihayals Jheel where 97 breeds of acquitic birds have beeb identified. In winter season birds in thousands come from far and wide and remain here till February-March. Of them Saras (Crane) Surkhab(Br… Duck), Seenkh par (pintail), Hans (B… ) Geese(j. thok)(Pantid stork ), Bagula(lg… )(Darter), (Damociyal Crane), Aari(koot), Chamcha(Spoonwil) Hargila (Adjufant Stark), Kunj(Samocigal crane etc. are prominent.

On the study by Bombay, Natural History Socirty for birds as per their point of veiw After Bharatpur pakshi vihar Dihayela Jheel is the second best pakshi vihar. In the country this is.. . . . Abharayani of its kind which is appropriate for Son Chiraya, and black bucks which offers mixed sight seeing.

Because of proper environment and security the number of black buks has increased 21/2 to 3 times than the desired number in the Abhyaranya area with the result the black bucks are proving harmful to the crops of the farmers there is dissatisfaction amongst the for sometime. For tiding over this problem to shift black bucks in some other area talks between specialists and government are in progress. This is a solitary effort to safe guard black bucks. Decisive Solution of this problem has not been found so far. To over come this problem for the last two years cultivations has been undertaken for blackbucks in Abhyaraiyai area by the government, the farmers have got relief to sufficient extent; because the black bucks are centred around the cultivated land. In the morning and evening black bycks can be seen in great number while grazing in the fields that have been cultivated.

When these black bucks will become accustomed to this ara, they will be transferred to some other place with some special technique; which will be put into action after through discussion. Plantation of blace bucks elsewhere is unique experiment in this Abhyaranya first of all in the world.

This Abhyaranya is open thoughout except rainy season but December fo February is the best period to tour here. During this period thousands of birds are visible in the Dihayala Jheel when black bucks and son chiraya are also visible in this are a enjoying sunshine. The best time for touring the abhyaranya is 2-3 hours after sunrise and 2 hours before sunset.

Datia Palace
Datia town is situated 75 K. Ms. away from Gwalior, the peculiarity of the old palace is that in such a beautiful and grand building no member of the royal family have dwelled there. Till today. It has been heard many a times that hundreds of elephants could be accomodated in the downfloor. In Bundelkhand Maharaja Bir Singh was the founder of Datia State and on Sunday in December 1618 started construction work of 52 big buildings in the state. Bir Singh Dev was a brave and clever ruler. He was contemporery of Samrat Akbar and Jahangir. With the help of Jahangir because of his frienship with him he could rise from small jagir of Badoni to ruler of Bundelkhand.

Bir Singh had assisinated Abulfazal at the instance of Salim (Jahangir) on 9th August 1602 at Sarai Barki near Badoni (which is now known as Antri) because of antagonistic relations between Salim and Akbar Because of this reason there was great friendship between Birsingh Dev ans Salim. After the Death of Akbar the great in 1605 Salim became emperor of India in the name of Jahangir. With the help of Jahangir Singh Dev became the ruler of Orchha. The seven storeyed palace of Datia is Known as old palace. The then historian Abdul Hamid Lahori visited this place on 19th Nov, 1635 along with Emperor Shah Jahan. He has Written that length and breadth of this palace was 84 yards and there were beautiful gardens on all the four sides. This was in it self unique palace.

In Masir-Ul Umra history of Mughal Sardars, It is mentioned that this palace was constructed in 9 years and 35 lakh rutpees were spent on its contruction. This palace is given national importance, which is located on hillock on the western side of Datia, from its establishment point of view. There is clear impact of Mughal… . . architeture on the palace. Vastukala primarily is form of Rajput styled that is why is said to be Bundela foundation. Of the 52 buildings that were got constructed by Birsingh Dev, Datia palace is best of all. This seven storeyed palace is visible from even distance. In each of the portion of this square palace there are four compounds. In the middle is MANDAP. Iron and wood have not been used in this palace made of lime and stone. There are no Shutters or doors and windows. French design pictures are painted on the roofs. The designof stairs. In Ayatkar and vargakar, leads to mystery and deception in the absence of guide in the palace a visitor can easily be misled. The eastern portion of the palace is beautiful and attractive The Jhrokhas of vatayan made of Jhanjri and stone jaali and slopes of tombs are beautiful. In the near by is Mehrab which is projected towards outside. There is an open Prakoshat over this Prakoshat in which there is Jharokha. Central tomb and two other tombs present a peculiar sight. Inthe shelf of central tpmb he idol of Ganesh Ji is there. In front of the two main entrance gate there is a temple of Durga ji. In the first chamber in front of main gate there are home goods of Bundelas. In the upper storey of one chamber there is a Dargah. On both the corners of western side of palace there are two Burjs. On the walls of Burjs plants and leaves have been carved. In front of Southern portion there is famous LALA KA TAAL of Datia. World fame Art Specialist percy Brown has given vivid description of construction of tis palace. Tombs Bharani and Kangoore are mainly worth seeing It is said that this palace has been constructed at that palace where Birsingh Dev and Jahangir had met. This palace is a symbol of exemplary friendship.

There was some damage caused by lightening in 1925. Even today this beautiful palace, from vastukala point of view, is a good tourist spot. Lower two storeys have been closed from security point of view. For detailed study of archaeological movements and in giving new direction to historians this palace is appropriate, which has never been used for residence by family members of the palace; whereas the construction works were undertaken for all facilities of family members of palace. Refugees from West Pakistan were given refuge in old palace in Datia which is 27 K. M. from Jhansi and 75 K. M. away from Gwalior. they left this place after residing here for some time. In the under ground there are some routes and ways at times equestrians go out of the palace. World fame wrestler Gaama used to take his exercises in the wrestling field of this palace. This Wrestling field has been closed now. New houses have been constructed by public at large and there by the beauty of this palace has been hampered. Archeological survey of India and Dist. administration should pay attention to it. Datia is considered as small Brindaban. Tourists are attracted by Bevdi of Sirol, Rajgarh palace, Pratapgarh fort, Sankua Sevda, Ratangarh fort, Karan Sagar, Shilalekh of Ashok, etc. & about 2 dozen such spots. Touring Datia is easy, comfortable and imparts Knowledge. There is queer combination of Bundeli literature, art, and civilization and music.

Jain Temples Of Sonagir
Sonagir is the main religious place of Jains. It is 65K. Ms. away from Gwalior. This is a famous and natural spiritual area. Many a Mahatmas had worshipped here. The oldest and biggest temple of this place is of God Chander Prabhu. This temple was constructed in Vikram335. The huge idol of God Chander Prabhu has been carved out of hillock. Many illustrious stories are connected with this idol. There are many more temples which are on the way while climbing the steps. there are many a cave here. It is said that numerous priests preached there and acquired knowledge . In peaceful environment there is Naryal – Kund at the top of hillock which is always full of water. There is one very attractive Kirti Stambh here. This pillar is about 30 feet high. Every year in the month of chet(March) a fair is held which attracts piligrims from whole of the country. Sonagir is the main religious place for persons preaching Jain Dharam and is also for other tourists. One can easily adjudge the importance after seeing it. In Indian Sanskrit-Heritage. Sonagir has an important contribution.

Bundelkhand ‘s important visiting spot is Orcha which is 116 K. Ms. away from Gwalior and 16 K. Ms. away from Jhansi. Orchha is in the district Tikamgardh and is on way from jhansi to Manikpur it is first railway station from jhansi. Orchha had been the capital of old Bundela rulers. River Betwa and other rivers merge here. Of Bundels dynasty, First ruler was Sohanpal in 1268. Rudarpratap in 1509 was its ruler. He was Quite brave and itelligent. In 1531 Rudrapratap shifted his capital from Gadhkunhar to orchha.

Of Bundela rulers Raja Bir Singh Dev was very successful and brave. He was very friendly with Mughal Emperor Jahangir. In order to please Jahangir prime minister of Akbar Abul Fazal was got murdered by Birdev Singh near Antri in 1602. THis had hurt Akbar very much Historians admit that one of the reason of the death of Akbar was murder of Abul Fazal. After the death of Emperor Akbar when princes Salim became the Emperor at the throne of Delhi as Jahangir, he returned the terrytory won by Mughals to Raja Bir Singh Dev and made him ruler of Orchha. Of the various rulers of Orchha the name of Raja BirSingh Dev has been prominent. Raja Birsingh Dev enhanced the cultural herritage of Orchha. He got constructed Jahangir palace and many temples ;which are today trealure of Indian Sanskrit heritage . It is paingul that for want of care of jahangir palace the main building is in bad shap. With in a span of decade or two this beautiful Jahangir palace can lose its cultural beauty.

In 1183 Raja Vikramjit Singh has shifted his capital from Orchha to Tikamgarh. On study of important buildings forts, temples of orchha it transpires many beautiful facts. Hidden in them. Temples palaces of this place are important Jhankians of Indian Cultural heritage. Raja Bharti chandara of Orchha had got constructed temple of Raja Ram in 1522. Similarily Chaturbhuj Mandir is also our heritage. THis is a gift of Bundela rulers. This temple is higher and more beautifulthan other temples of Orchha. THis was got constructed by Raja Madhukar Shah from 1560 to 1570. Badal palace is in front of chaturbhuj temple. there is ground floor in this palace. There are many small open Mandaps. This palace seems bigger than Ram Raja palace. There are many painted pictures in 6 big rooms of the palace. THese are still safe. Natural colours have been used in them. Of these paintings Samudra Manthan, Cheer Haran etc. are main and they are sufficiently beautiful.

Jahangir palace is the most beautiful and attractive of the various temples of Orchha. THis was got constructed in 1668. This is in 220 feet square place. There are 8 big and beautiful tombs and there is a big compound in it. Chajhas decoration is amiable. There is a fountain in the middle of compound which adds to its beauty. The special feature of this palace is the hanging chajhas in front of all rooms and beautifull Jaalis have been fitted in may rooms or Jahangir palace there are beautiful pictures of Mughal Pattern of them some are painting for want of proper care.

The famous fort ot Narwar, which is in Shivpuri district was built by Raja Nal which is 100 K. Ms. away from Gwlior. The geographically conditions of Narwar completely match with Nalpur of Raja Nal. Asper great old epic during the period of the Mahabharat time Narwar was known as Nalpur. This state was known as Nishaad state which is being ruled by Veersen and his son was Raja Nal. This fort is one of the important forts of Bundelkhand. Raja Nal was married with Damyanti, daughter of Vivarath. It is said that in the game of chopad Raja Nal had staked his state and had lost every thing. Later, he had to leave his state and migtated to a country known as Nishad. Being tired of his life he had to leave his wife. Damyanti the wife of Nal when reached her father ‘s house weeping bitterly she asked her mother that efforts be made again to trace Maharaj Nal of Narwar if they wanted to see her alive.

Famous Narwar Fort
Bahu mandir After climbing the footsteps, we can reach the main gate of Narwar fort. THis attactive fort has two gates. At the main gate there is an old door in deplorable condition. Onclimbing the steps and on reaching at the sufficient height, one feels that HAVAPOR has been rightly named by its builders. There are many small rooms on both the sides for use of the guards. After climbing the steps of HAVAPOR we reach the compound of the fort and by crossing them access is available to the palaces.

In the historic fort of Narwar there is a building named Safed Haveli (White Building). This buildingis very beautiful from artistic point of view. There are limited doors and windows in it. There is a person near this building which transpires that this Haveli might have been for military officers . In old days prisons were mostly kept in the safe forts. In prisons iron bars are used but unlike this at sufficient height jharokhas are constructed; where stone lanterns have been slantingly fixed. After moving a little ahead of white Haveli there is a good Mosque. After this there is famous Katora Taal of this fort. On all the four sides of this Tall (pond) there are places for keeping horses. Just in the middle of the tank there is SHIVLING on one shila. For want of proper up-keep the buildings of this fort are demolishing and horses’houses also are in Ruined conditions around the katora Taal. Darbar of Dhola s/o Raja Nal is still in good shape. There was one temple of Shivji which became Ruined and has fallen down. The idol also is missing.

From Katora Taal when we move to north, there is temple of Pasardevi where a huge idol is in lying posture. When Raja Nal had lost all his state in gambling, and when he was leaving the fort the goddess has laid there with utmost grief; even then Raja Nal didnot stop there. There are eight walls and nine tanks (Bawdias) but Bawadias are full rubbish. The buildings of LadauBangla, Rani Mahal and court palaces are worth seeing.

Safe gates of entry of Rani mahal can be seen today. There are high walls around the palaces on all the four sides. It appears, that these palaces were not left open from security point of view. It is important to note that 500 years old building have tubs in their bathrooms where there was adeqate arrangement of hot and cold water. Pipelines are laid down from water tank to bathrooms. A thing of sorrow to note that some efforts were made by Scindia ruler in 1925 for the repair of palaces and temples of this area of Shivpuri but archaeology department didnot pay any attention here.

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